What kind of Adhesive?
I am wondering what kind of adhesive is the best to use in attaching the tunnels to supergourds or similar. We put PVC tunnels on our super & troyer gourds last spring, and some are coming loose now, actually where they are coming loose is the vinyl that we used for the crescent is coming off the PVC and the aluminum porch is also coming off the vinyl. HELP! I need to get them fixed as our martins could come any day. A friend of ours said he seen one 2 days ago so I know they are in the area as he is only a couple miles from us.
MM
I would suggest F26 if you are looking for a glue of some type. Its a construction adhesive for interior and exterior use and is good stuff. Its paintable and dries in 24 hours. I use it on gourds and wooden houses. Available at most Lowes stores.
I would suggest F26 if you are looking for a glue of some type. Its a construction adhesive for interior and exterior use and is good stuff. Its paintable and dries in 24 hours. I use it on gourds and wooden houses. Available at most Lowes stores.
Tony
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John Miller
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I like to use the Liquid Nails -- prefer the Heavy Duty rated for outdoor use. But it takes a few days to harden well, and it's messy. I use my fingers to spread it out, and then need mineral spirits for clean up. After it dries well.. but would be a week I think..you can paint it with a water-based paint, but not oil based as it won't dry well on top of liquid nails.
Some people prefer construction glue called PPCA - it has similar characteristics I find to liquid nails but may be easier to scrap off if you make changes later.
Some people just use white window caulk around these tunnels, if they sit snug initially. This would be the fastest and easiest for you. Cleanup with a wet rag.
It may help any glue to stick to plastic better if you first lightly sand it, or itch it with acetone. Some folks use PVC cleaner. \
John M
Some people prefer construction glue called PPCA - it has similar characteristics I find to liquid nails but may be easier to scrap off if you make changes later.
Some people just use white window caulk around these tunnels, if they sit snug initially. This would be the fastest and easiest for you. Cleanup with a wet rag.
It may help any glue to stick to plastic better if you first lightly sand it, or itch it with acetone. Some folks use PVC cleaner. \
John M
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tor
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We use liquid nails too, then use a good caulk to seal the tunnels.
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Joe Zorn
In an earlier post, I showed a product called Fix-It-Stick. It's good stuff, and I us it liiberally.
But another product that I've found that seems to stick to and hold everything is called "9001" All Purpose Adhesive. It's a clear epoxy in a squeezable tube. It hardens overnight well enough to work with it, but has a rubbery feel the first day. After two days, it's solid as nails.
I used several versions of Liquid Nails and other consturction adhesives, but just not been happy with them. Silicone seal has been a complete failure in all applications for PM use.
When I attach something with the 9001 product, I just apply the stuff, then make the porch or tunnel or access port stay in place overnight with a bit of tape until the epoxy hardens. The next day, I can move the tape and work with it. It's painted up very well so far.
But another product that I've found that seems to stick to and hold everything is called "9001" All Purpose Adhesive. It's a clear epoxy in a squeezable tube. It hardens overnight well enough to work with it, but has a rubbery feel the first day. After two days, it's solid as nails.
I used several versions of Liquid Nails and other consturction adhesives, but just not been happy with them. Silicone seal has been a complete failure in all applications for PM use.
When I attach something with the 9001 product, I just apply the stuff, then make the porch or tunnel or access port stay in place overnight with a bit of tape until the epoxy hardens. The next day, I can move the tape and work with it. It's painted up very well so far.
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Scott D.- La
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MM, I use liquid nails adhesive caulk AC-138 and have had fairly good luck with it. I'm working on a project at the moment, and I'm using PL Premium constuction adhesive and seems to be some pretty mean stuff however, I don't know if it can be removed later if you needed to. I kinda doubt it.
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Ron Shaffer
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...going with Scott on this one Pl..premium construction adhesive..available at Lowes...used some of that stuff 5 years ago and it is still holding up..WELL!
In my experience Liquid Nails simply does not hold up...had to use a dremel tool tonight to get it off of about 8 3 inch tunnels that I used last year...not that my cuts were that precise last year
.....thanks for that idea, Linda...I needed a dremel anyway..and it was perfect for the job....I looked like I'd been caught in a snowstorm afterwards, but it worked!
In my experience Liquid Nails simply does not hold up...had to use a dremel tool tonight to get it off of about 8 3 inch tunnels that I used last year...not that my cuts were that precise last year
SEAL THE BORDERS NOW!!
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Phenoseal. Best I have found. Worked on styrofoam, used to bond and seal access ports to Bo Gourds, works on any surface I've tried. Dries quick and paintable.
more info:
http://www.phenoseal.com/product_categories.aspx
more info:
http://www.phenoseal.com/product_categories.aspx
Bob n Jo,
Check our web pages with pics and clips:
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Check our web pages with pics and clips:
http://elwood.longlines.com/~jobob1/Sit ... olony.html
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Guest
Which Phenoseal product are you talking about here? I looked at Phenoseal Does It Clear but the list of what it adheres to doesn't mention GOURDS.bobnjo wrote:Phenoseal. Best I have found. Worked on styrofoam, used to bond and seal access ports to Bo Gourds, works on any surface I've tried. Dries quick and paintable.
more info:
http://www.phenoseal.com/product_categories.aspx
I am sure Bob is talking about the vinyl adhesive caulk. It is really good stuff. Also Polyseamseal adhesive caulk works very well .
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2013 20 pair 64 fledged 2014 19 pair fledged 84 2015 26 pair fledged 124 2016 36 pair fledged 156 2017 40 pair fledged 156
PMCA member
Thanks all of you for your suggestions. I really appreciate it!
We decided on the "PL construction adhesive".
Wishing all of you a very successful martin season.
We decided on the "PL construction adhesive".
Wishing all of you a very successful martin season.
Martha
2016 - first pair 2/18
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2012 - 6 pr.
2011 - 1 pr.
2010 - Hoping for a lot more!
2009 - 1 successful nesting pair!
2016 - first pair 2/18
2015 - 18 pair
2014 - 15 pr
2013 - 11 pr. & 1 single SY male
2012 - 6 pr.
2011 - 1 pr.
2010 - Hoping for a lot more!
2009 - 1 successful nesting pair!
Sorry for bumping...just my two cents...
Make sure you know how to use the glue below properly, you need very little.
Use this EXACT epoxy, not ones similar, cheap versions, or other types by Loctite.
Do not use gels as they are harder to apply correctly.
Correct application will dry CLEAR, and not go white, if they are no contaminates.
Clean the broken pieces with naphtha first.
Preferred technique is to use a set dental picks to apply the epoxy, thereby allowing controlled application, not direct from the bottle.
Be prepared to hold the piece vertical for a good connection, and brace the bottom half with a vice and towels allowing better stability.
Overuse for spilling on the crack will make the glue seam show, make the plastic stick to your fingers, leave fingerprints, and this stuff can "melt" plastics and destroy artwork, if you are not careful by "glooping".
The good news if you are really careful, the "melt factor" is actually beneficial as it will completely hide the seam.
Practice with an split acrylic washer or junk plastic to master your techniques.
Basic set is less than 60 seconds, keep this in mind.
The piece will "lock down" and be unmoveable in around 30 seconds.
Less than an hour and the part will be dry, keep the part vertical the whole time.
I have used this J B Weld Glue https://besttoolexpert.com/glue-for-plastic/ for years, and it will give the original strength back to the break on the plastic.
The reason is simple, it has been recommended by plastic modelers for decades, due to its high strength and fast curing.
There are a lot of cool YouTube videos on this subject, here’s one of them.Good luck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djtKXkTqPUI&t=4s
Make sure you know how to use the glue below properly, you need very little.
Use this EXACT epoxy, not ones similar, cheap versions, or other types by Loctite.
Do not use gels as they are harder to apply correctly.
Correct application will dry CLEAR, and not go white, if they are no contaminates.
Clean the broken pieces with naphtha first.
Preferred technique is to use a set dental picks to apply the epoxy, thereby allowing controlled application, not direct from the bottle.
Be prepared to hold the piece vertical for a good connection, and brace the bottom half with a vice and towels allowing better stability.
Overuse for spilling on the crack will make the glue seam show, make the plastic stick to your fingers, leave fingerprints, and this stuff can "melt" plastics and destroy artwork, if you are not careful by "glooping".
The good news if you are really careful, the "melt factor" is actually beneficial as it will completely hide the seam.
Practice with an split acrylic washer or junk plastic to master your techniques.
Basic set is less than 60 seconds, keep this in mind.
The piece will "lock down" and be unmoveable in around 30 seconds.
Less than an hour and the part will be dry, keep the part vertical the whole time.
I have used this J B Weld Glue https://besttoolexpert.com/glue-for-plastic/ for years, and it will give the original strength back to the break on the plastic.
The reason is simple, it has been recommended by plastic modelers for decades, due to its high strength and fast curing.
There are a lot of cool YouTube videos on this subject, here’s one of them.Good luck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djtKXkTqPUI&t=4s
Last edited by Emamor on Thu Oct 18, 2018 1:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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John & Linda - KY
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