Mary Dawnsong, Questions on Sparrow Trapping

[Nanette]

Mary Dawnsong,
I want to erect a Trio house for the purpose of trapping sparrows as you suggested in another post. I have several questions. You said that you use Spare-O-door traps. Is there an advantage using them over the PMCA universal sparrow trap? Also, how do I face the house? I have a 20ft Maple tree approx 40 ft from my martin housing. Do I place the house so that one side of the openings face the tree and the other side faces out or do I face it so that the side of the house faces the tree and both sides with openings have a clear flight path? If the openings face the martin housing, will that lead to martins to try and nest in it? Last but not least, is how to "dispose" of them. Up until now, I have been the "clip and release" type but if I catch as many as you say, then that is not an option. Several posts have said to use starter fluid because it is ether. I purchased some and it says that it is only 50% ether. Will it still work and how much do I need to spray before the bird is no longer just sleeping? This is going to be hard enough for me to begin with and if the bird starts waking, I'll be freaking!

[CUL Lou~Mich]

Nanette. Excuse my butting in, but here's my thoughts on it. I believe the UST is too large to go into a Trio house easily. Seems like I read the porch rail kept it from going in. The SD-1s are designed for the trio houses. I believe Marys trio house (HOSPice as she calls it) has one side of doors facing the trees, the other out into her yard. I'm sure though that she catches the EHS on both sides. As for disposal. If you get the SD-1 new, it has a plastic tunnel, and a plastic bag. You put the tunnel against the house hole, then open the flapper. Normally, the EHS will see light, figure it's freedom, and fly out, right into the bag. However, what I normally use is a quart glass jar. Same thing happens, plus you can safely squirt starting fluid in to the glass jar. Cover it with the lid, a piece of plywood, or whatever, and within a few seconds, the EHS is no more. I normally just sit it someplace, go back, reset the trap, and raise it back up, then dispose of the EHS, into a plastic grocery bag, then the trash barrel. Starting fluid is starting fluid as far as I know. I've never looked to see the ether content, but I'm sure they are pretty standard. It's also NOT the amount of content, it's the duration that the EHS is breathing the starting fluid. If you give it a second or two of squirt, that should do it. That's another reason I like a glass jar. It's solid, whereas the bags aren't. The glass jar fills up with the ether, and none escapes, so the EHS doesn't get any fresh air, unless you tip the jar over or something like that. Good Luck. CUL Lou

[Mary Dawnsong]

Here is info on the trapping method that Nannette is asking about:
http://www.purplemartin.org/forum/viewt ... ght=#57681

Hi Nannette,

I have no experience with the universal sparrow trap so cannot make a comparison. Thanks Lou for you comments.

I can say that I had poor success trapping House Sparrows with gourd insert traps and with large wooden nestbox traps. I had given up on nestbox trapping of HOSP and used a pellet gun, instead. Despite practice and a great gun/scope combo, I never became reliable at shooting HOSP with the conditions/distance here. I also didn't like it that each missed shot deposited a lead pellet in the lake. Poisoning from lead sinkers/pellets is lethal for waterfowl.

So, I decided to assemble a Trio house full of Spare-O-Doors and dedicate it to trapping HOSP. Life as a martin landlord is much easier and more carefree with the HOSP problem solved. House Sparrows are extremely wary and I believe one reason the Spare-O-Door works so well as a trap in a Trio house is that it doesn't look like a trap. It looks like it belongs as part of the house. So there is nothing to be suspicious of and HOSP enter it eagerly. In my area, aluminum martin houses are probably the major source of housing for HOSP. So, HOSP here are very attracted to a Trio for nesting purposes.

The Spare-O-Door is engineered to be tripped by a House Sparrow and is very effective at catching any HOSP that enters. Traps designed to catch both Starlings and HOSP compromise in this area.

New martin arrivals sometimes sit on my Trio trap house and gaze longingly at the tiny trap entries. It's presence on my property definitely attracts martins! However, you do not have to worry about martins entering a Spare-O-Door. For the last 10+ years it has been manufactured with a round opening of only 1 3/8". (An older version was 1 1/2", for more info see: http://www.purplemartin.org/LOY/LOY1995.html )

However, the Spare-O-Door must be carefully monitored because it can catch smaller native species like Tree Swallows, wrens, and, I suspect, Bluebirds.

Orientation of the trap house is not important. However, it is a good idea to have the trap holes visible from the martin housing so HOSP see that an attractive alternative to martin housing is available.

Location of the Trio trap house is not as critical as location of martin housing. HOSP don't need wide open flight paths. My trap house is in plain view of the martin housing, about 40-50' away and within 15' of a tall tree. Again, siting is not that critical. In the first year of use, I erected it directly under the martin gourd racks and caught a lot of HOSP there, too.

Consider NOT doing a permanent ground installation of the trap house pole. I use a augered dock post as a ground socket - just screw it into the ground. Take the cap off the top of the dock post and drop the Trio pole into the hollow post. This gives you complete freedom to move the trap wherever you want.

I do not use the bottom section of the Trio pole. So my trap house is only about 10' high. This makes it easier to raise and lower and it is stable in any wind.

Regarding euthanasia of HOSP...
I have not used chemicals to kill HOSP so cannot advise on the use of automotive starter fluid. My technique is chest compression. It is a perfectly natural method that is also used by constricting snakes to kill their prey. I never have to touch the HOSP with my bare hands. Lay the HOSP on its back in the palm of your hand while it is still in the removal bag. With your thumb, press lightly on the breastbone. The HOSP will exhale and will not be able to inhale because of the light pressure. It will quietly die of suffocation within 30 seconds.

Good luck eliminating the non-native House Sparrow,
Mary

[Nanette]

Hi Mary and Lou,
I do have trouble with the Universal Sparrow trap hitting the fence on my Trio house but I have figured a way to twist it and pull down the fence slightly to get the trap in and out. The thing which scares me most is having the Martins trying to nest in the new house and for that reason, the Spare-O-door sounds like the answer. I didn't realize that the hole was too small for the Martin. Of course I will check it often in case of other native birds getting caught.
I have never killed anything before except things like fire ants and mosquitos. I am even an organic gardener so as to kill only those pests which need killing. I have used a Hav-a-heart trap to catch mice in the house. I don't even kill spiders. I just gather them up and put them outside. Killing sparrows is going to be very hard for me to do. I am thinking that the starter fluid might be easier than chest compression for now. I have it in my head that I must control sparrows and I also have it in my head that "clip and release" won't work with larger numbers of sparrows. I am really nervous about killing that FIRST one. God, grant me the strength!

[Nanette]

OOPs! I forgot to ask, can you spray starter fluid in the Spare-O-Trap plastic bag or will it ruin it?

[CUL Lou~Mich]

Nanette. I'm not sure if it would ruin it or not. One could try it, and see how it works. I've just gotten used to using the glass quart jar, since my funnel/plastic bag deteriorated, and ended up in a million pieces several years ago. I had like three of the traps, but sent two to a friend, then decided to buy another. Just got the new one, complete with the funnel/plastic bag. Probably just use the quart jar though, since that's what I've used for ten or so years. CUL Lou

[Nanette]

Hi Lou,
How do you keep the bird from flying out when you spray the starter fluid?

Also, does anyone have pictures of SPARROW devastation to a martin or BB nest they could send me? My teenage daughter is very strong willed and is very adamant about not killing sparrows. Perhaps a picture or two might help.

[Mary Dawnsong]

Hi Nannette,

Here are some photos/articles on damage by non-native House Sparrows:

http://members.tripod.com/~herper/nothi ... ouble.html

http://community-2.webtv.net/hubertrap/ ... OWCONTROL/

Photo down towards the bottom of this one:
http://home.earthlink.net/~chuckabare/pests.htm

I also remember at least one posting of photos on the forum in the last month, but don't remember who/when and it would be tough to find with a search.

The US Fish and Wildlife Service promotes "elimination" of non-native, unprotected
House Sparrows and European Starlings.

From their online pamphlet MIGRATORY SONGBIRD CONSERVATION at: http://library.fws.gov/Bird_Publication ... l#Sparrows

House Sparrows and Starlings - Every Spring, birds that nest in cavities compete with
each other for a limited number of nest sites. The neotropical migrants that nest in cavities
- purple martins, tree swallows and great-crested flycatchers - have adapted to competition
from chickadees, titmice and woodpeckers.

The "rules of competition" changed around the turn of the century when we humans
imported two European cavity nesting species: house sparrows and starlings.

House sparrows eliminate nest competitors by attacking the adults and killing the young
when they are on the nest. Starlings eliminate nest competitors by taking over cavity
nesting sites. Our native birds don't seem to be able to defend themselves from house
sparrow and starling attacks. So, if you put up a nest box to help bluebirds, martins,
chickadees, titmice, woodpecker, wrens or flycatchers, you must monitor the box and
eliminate house sparrows and starlings.

The United States Geological Survey recommends the use of traps to "eliminate" non-native,
unprotected House Sparrows and European Starlings.

From http://www.npwrc.usgs.gov/resource/1999 ... exotic.htm

A major factor leading to the decline of eastern bluebird populations has been nesting
competition with non-native species, specifically European starlings and house sparrows......

Trapping and eliminating the adult bird in the box is more effective
than simply removing the nests. Trapping with inside-the-box traps or bait-type traps
such as those made by Trio, and Hav-a-hart, is recommended. If uncomfortable with
removing the birds or nests, another option is to vigorously shake the eggs, or addle them,
for 60 seconds and leave them in the nest so that the female will continue to expend
reproductive energy without hatching success. This also prevents the exotic species
from attempting to take over another box.

[Nanette]

Thank you Mary Dawnsong,

For the past two to three weeks I have had a male House Sparrow going form cavity to cavity on my T-14. He would then perch on top and chirp for literally hours. He eventually became more and more focused on two cavities, both of which had the beginnings of Martin nests. Actually, I am happy to say that 12 out of the 14 cavities in that house are occupied. Most of the nests are complete and eggs being laid. The two compartments that the sparrow was interested are now complete but no eggs yet. I didn't feel comfortable about removing the martin nests to insert the trap. Every morning and evening I had to listen to that sparrow and worry that he would kill the eggs that would be laid in those cavities. Today I had finally had it. I asked my son to get my husband's childhood BB gun and try and kill the sparrow. He clipped him and the bird fell off the perch and down to the ground. He twitched around for awhile and I ran outside with the starter fluid to finish the job. As I got there, the sparrow flew away. I only hope he was injured enough that he won't be back. It is strange but the thought of the bird being injured and suffering was far outweighed by the elation that he (hopefully) won't be back. My daughter was really angry but I'll have to live with that...it certainly won't be the first time! I was able to contact a local falconer today and he said he would love any sparrows that I trapped. I told my daughter that the falconer had some Peregrine Falcon eggs about to hatch and wouldn't it be great to keep the martins safe while helping to feed the baby falcons. She seemed OK with that as long as we gave them away live. I ordered the Trio house and 3 spare-O-doors. I also have a universal sparrow trap and hopefully I will catch many sparrows. You have been very helpful. Thank you for all your advice.

[Mary Dawnsong]

Hi Nannette,

Good luck with your trap house!
I think you will find it catches the most HOSP in early spring when they are most actively seeking nest compartments.

My dedicated trap house caught 68 House Sparrows in the first month of operation this season, April 5 - May 5. However, I haven't caught any for several days. Either the HOSP are not cavity-seeking right now -or- I have eliminated most in my immediate neighborhood.

HOSP have 3-5 broods per season, so I expect to catch more breeding birds through the summer months. It also catches juveniles in late summer and fall.

Cavities are like gold for birds and they compete intensely for them. If you erect nest compartments on your property, eventually birds WILL die over them. It is in your power to determine whether the birds that die are our beautiful native species or the introduced, vicious, pest species.

Good luck getting the HOSP,
Mary

[Nanette]

Hi Again Mary,
On a slightly different thread, I have not seen any Sub Adult pairs yet. My colony has more than doubled from last year (12 pairs including 3 ASY pairs to 28 ASY pairs) and I am thinking that I should have some SAs by now if I am going to have them. Very few cavities are left except for my 16 new SG's. When the ASY's were arriving and checking out the SG's, they were having a very difficult time getting in. I was informed on one thread that the crescent entries may need to be enlarged to 1 3/16. Mine were 1 2/16 so enlarged them by 1/16 inch. By then the ASY were pretty much settled so I have been waiting for SA's to arrive and check them out. As of yet I haven't seen any. What reason could there be that I would increase in ASY's yet not have any SY's?

[Mary Dawnsong]

Hi Nannette,

SYs are just starting to arrive in my area and I expect them to continue arriving for about a month. I don't know what the schedule is like in your area, but expect you have at least a couple more weeks to attract them.

My housing fills up with ASY birds and as a consequence, I see very few SYs here. I think most of the male SYs are driven off immediately. That may be happening at your site, too.

I expect many of your gourds will fill. Your site is doing great!

My best, Mary

[Guest]

Just to put in my 2 cents worth about the starter fluid thing- I use a plastic rubbermaid drink holder (the same size and shape of a tennis ball can) that has a lid with a small hole you can plug or unplug (so you could drink out of it). The sparrows fly right in and then I quickly put on the lid, then open the plug part and squirt in the starter fluid w/o risk of letting the sparrow out. As much as I hate those sparrows this seems to be a pretty humane way to dispose of them.

[Nanette]

BransonBel,
That sounds like a great idea! Thanks.

[Guest]

If you are going to use the SD1 trap for the Trio houses, after one is caught wait one day and the sparrow will have expired without any food or water. There will not be any chance of it possibly escaping or you getting "wierded out" by having to kill it yourself. I use two SD1 traps side by side in our modified TG12 Grandpa. On many occasions when the male gets caught and is flapping around on the inside of the trap, the female will go into the trap next to it to try and help out it's mate and get caught also! So far I've trapped 9 and taken 7 with the pellet gun. Good luck

[Mary Dawnsong]

Hi Randy,

You are so right about adjacent Spare-O-Doors catching House Sparrow pairs. I have caught dozens of pairs that way. I also have caught multiples, three male House Sparrows within the same hour.

That's why a dedicated trap house with several Spare-O-Doors is so effective. I don't know if it's curiosity or just a strong urge to join a captured mate, but it is very easy to catch more than one HOSP in short order.

Regarding the practice of letting HOSP die in a trap compartment...

Spare-O-Doors (SD-1) also catch native birds. I recently caught a Tree Swallow. In fact, I caught a Tree Swallow in the same compartment two days in a row so believe it was the same one! A couple of years ago, a seasoned landlord reported finding a female Bluebird trapped by a Spare-O-Door; sadly the Bluebird was dead because the trap had not been closely monitored.

Killing House Sparrows by starvation/dehydration is not considered humane.
Some states regulate trapping for this reason alone -even when- the species being trapped is NOT protected by law.