Questions About T-14 Construction

Nanette · Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:42 am

Hi Everyone,
I am about to start building my T-14 and I have a few questions. I purchased the kit and have sanded, double primed, re-sanded and double painted every piece. What a chore especially with a high energy puppy around! I painted the inside a medium purple gray called "Tunnel of Love". Hopefully the name is a good omen and I'll have lots of babies! It isn't very dark but it is darker than the unpainted wood color.
I am now ready to start nailing it together. I remember from some prior e-mails that some people mentioned that the deck screws that come with the kit may split the sides, floors or porches. I really don't want that to happen so does anyone have a suggestion on what type/size of screw I should use? Also, I purchased some copper to cover the roof. Will this cause a problem? I am going to put vinegar on it to age it so it isn't so shiny and hot and I also purchased some spray insulation to put in the attic. Is the fact that there are no vents in the house a problem? I was thinking on getting some small copper elbow fittings to put on each floor, kind of like the PVC ones people are using to vent their SG's. My other concern is drainage. There is none but does the house need any? I have crescent holes and I can't imagine too much rain getting in even in a driving rain storm. As you can see, I am having a fun time "personalizing" the house but I do want to make sure the martins are safe.

geneinmurphy · Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:52 am

Nanette....hate to be the one to tell you this, but I highly recommend against painting the INSIDE of the T14......the PM's like the natural wood. On mine, I used 2 1/2" wood decking screws (be sure the box they come in say for pine/cedar)....

bk · Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:41 pm

Hi Nanette,
I mentioned about the cedar/pine deck screws causing the floors to split in my t14. Now I hadn't predrilled the floors, only the sides. If Mr. Troyer sends out screws with the kit, I'd try em.
Don't fret much about inside paint. I left my compartments "rustic", but there are no end of posts about people painting inside of gourds, and all the aluminum houses are either painted or powder coated. If the floors are really smooth, you might go with the nest box inserts, and leave them unfinished. Maybe next t14 you build, leave the insides unfinished, and see which ones the Martins like best in your neck of the woods. This is only my second year as a Martin Landlord so I'm no expert.
If those screws do cause splitting, I used 1 3/4 flat head zinc coated wood screws.
Thats going to be one good looking Martin House with the paintjob you describe.

bill
rowlett tx (nothing so far by our house)

geneinmurphy · Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:50 pm

Nanette.....I forget to mention about the spliting wood. On mine, I predrill with a small drill bit (bit that is slightly smaller diameter than the decking screw) before drill in the decking screw and never had a problem. Of course, be sure not to drill too close to the edge of the wood....

Nanette · Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:51 pm

I have heard pros and cons about painting the inside. I decided to paint mainly because of ease of cleaning and that everyone says that the PM's like a darker interior. I used to have a chicken coop when I lived in La. and painting the interior made it sooooo much easier to keep clean and kept the wood more in tact. I understand that paint chipping could be a problem but I'll just have to keep an eye on it. Good or bad, I did get the nest trays and painted them too.
The holes on the outside pieces of the house are predrilled but there are no predrilled holes on the floor or porch edges. The quality of the cedar in the kit is actually very nice and hopefully it won't split easily. Perhaps I'll try a few of the provided deck screws and any sign of splitting I'll predrill.
What about the copper on the roof? Does it get alot hotter than aluminum?

Sparky · Tue Feb 14, 2006 4:22 pm

Your painting the inside sounds like a good idea for cleaning purposes and sealing the wood. Sounds great. Also as mentioned to help cleanup and to give the martins a "more natural" nest area is to use the wood nest boxes made for the T-14. It's an extra investment, but they sure pay for themselves when cleaning up at the end of the season!

They also provide greater access when doing nest checks. Yes, on the splitting, cedar is great for insect and weather resistance, but bad on splitting. Definitely do a pilot hole as mentioned above. It will give the screw the clearance it needs without splitting the wood.
Sounds like your off to a great start

jonkertb · Tue Feb 14, 2006 5:59 pm

Nanett,
I'd pre drill the holes about 1/3 of their lenght and I'd use glue (pro woodworkers that is waterproof when it dries(alphetic resin I think it is)) to assemble. When the glue dries it will hold more than the screws and will fill any cracks. I don't think the copper will add much heat when it "greens"
tom

Nanette · Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:29 am

Tom,
I know this is probably a really stupid question but do I try to squeeze the glue in the hole or just apply it to the screw?

jonkertb · Wed Feb 15, 2006 11:21 am

apply it like a line or bead along the two surfaces that the screws are joining.....when you tighten the screws the glue will squeeze out and run everywhere.....just wipe it so it forms a nice line along the joint.....the more you do the more you'll know how much glue to use! Other wood workers can chime in but I think they will all agree....the glue when set will be stronger than the screws in holding power.
tom

Guest · Wed Feb 15, 2006 11:36 am

Nannette, glad to hear that you are going through with the T-14 project. I didn't have any problem with the deck screws, but you must use the right size screw and pilot hole. Use 1 5/8" #8 screws for everything except the porches. For them, use 3" #8 screws. If your kit is not predrilled, use a 7/64 bit for the pilot holes. If you use a power driver (highly recommended), set the clutch on a low setting for soft wood. After driving a few you will find the right setting. Other pilot hole recommendations are: #6 screw-3/32" and #10 screw-1/8". Fighting starlings in Louisiana,yours truly[/list]

Nanette · Wed Feb 15, 2006 3:35 pm

Hi Dbroussard,
Wow! What a handsome house!
I was just talking to one of the Troyers and he didn't know whether the screws were #6,8,or 10. He said that a friend down the street makes them! What a kick! Sometimes I envy the Amish lifestyle. I'll just have to eyeball the bit. The other thing he said is that because the house (sides) are predrilled that I don't need to predrill the actual floors or porches. Is that true or do you think I am better off drilling the hole to about 1/3 their length as Tom suggested? I'd rather be safe than sorry. Did you add any vents to your house? Having lived in Slidell (just north of Lake Ponchetrain) for a few years, I know it is like living in a sauna! I wish I knew then what I know now about martins. I used to cross the bridge all the time and never even knew that it was one of the countries largest roosts!

Guest · Wed Feb 15, 2006 6:06 pm

Nanette,

Your questioning is your strong suit. It is sure better to ask and ask rather than make a big mistake and be sorry. You seem to be OK in my opinion. Hope to see pictures when it is being built. I like your little love touches. Enjoy it is for you too!

Guest · Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:13 pm

Nanette, your main concern is to prevent the wood from splitting. Sounds like you are doing well. I would definitely predrill the porches which require a longer screw to attach them to the door. I found this to be the most difficult part. You might strip out the screw head before it is all the way in. This is my first year with the T14. I did not put any vents in it. I do not anticipate a heat problem with the 3/4" wood material. I had a homemade wood house before and had an established colony before a storm blew the house right off the pole! Good luck.

Guest · Thu Feb 16, 2006 5:04 am

Hello:
In regards to the installation of a freshly painted T14 put up in the spring, as I found out, can be a chore to disassemble in the fall due to the painted surfaces bonding to each other in the heat of the summer. I purchased a few rolls of plastic film which has a sticky back used for protecting carpet that I apply to one of the surfaces that will be butting up against another which ended the sticking problem and made disassembly a breeze. Packing tape used on boxes would be an alternative to the carpet rolls.
Bernie

Emil Pampell-Tx · Thu Feb 16, 2006 5:44 am

dbroussard, about vents on the T-14, when I made mine (which I no longer have), I drilled a few 1/2in holes near the top of each compartment, but I drilled them upward at a 45deg angle so that the water would not get in, and they stayed dry...I drilled about 6 holes in each compartment for ventilation..

Nanette · Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:06 am

Hi Emil,
What is your opinion on covering the roof with copper? Do you know if gets hotter than Aluminum?

Hi Bernie,
That sounds like a good idea. I can see where sticking could become a problem.

Emil Pampell-Tx · Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:17 am

That would be very pretty to have a copper roof. I think that I would put wood on anyway, and cover the wood with copper and then you would have no worry...I really don't know about the heat idea.

geneinmurphy · Thu Feb 16, 2006 11:25 am

Nanette.....throwing out an idea here about the T14 roofing. When visiting the Amish country in Ohio back in October I noticed that several of their T14's had actual roofing tile (cut to size, usually green color) for the roof of their T14's and they looked real nice..........

Guest · Thu Feb 16, 2006 11:32 am

Emil, that sounds llike a good idea for the ventillation holes. Do you think it is necessary considering the wood construction and design of the T14? Happy PM-ing!

Guest · Thu Feb 16, 2006 11:42 am

I do not want to sound like bragging, but we have copper roofing on our house and it looks great and will wear quite a long time.

MN martin gal