As I begin looking into the world of purple martins... I find myself a bit taken back with all the options and items out there available that as of a few weeks ago were non-existent...
Through all the research I have decided my best option for increasing my chances of attracting my first pms is to add some gourds...
This is where the confusion sets in... Man oh man... gourds that are natural, artificial, big ones, small ones, double chamber, horizontal, ones that look like mini houses... on and on...
The real question is:
From experience what gourd (gourd like) things to stay away from to avoid possible future disappointment?
Additional questions that come to mind as I type this:
If a martin is conditioned to a gourd, would it show interest in something like a double gourd, whistle gourd, bo villa gourd, or even a double bungalow martin gourd?
Should I have a couple of round standard entrances to make it easier for attracting martins?
I will be mounting 8 gourds to my T-14. I seen a similar set up on youtube that I liked very much. I am thinking of doing a couple of different types and just keeping it all looking symmetric... not a clutter of mess on a pole. I like the horizontal configuration, with the idea of hawk and owl protection.... but I am setting with zero experience in this world.
Lastly, Thoughts on the Multi-gourd bird houses?
I am considering purchasing a couple for separate housing for blue birds and tree swallows away from the Martin colony location. I see lots of blue birds daily.
Gourd options to avoid...
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Emil Pampell-Tx
- Posts: 6743
- Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 1:26 pm
- Location: Tx, Richmond (SW of Houston)
- Martin Colony History: First started in Gretna, La in 1969 with a small homemade house, have had martins ever since at 2 different homes in Texas
These are broad questions, and there is no exact answer. Birds are somewhat like people because different birds prefer different housing.
I will try to answer some of your questions:
1) most martins prefer 9 to 11 inch gourds with an attached tunnel (that is my opinion). The tunnel gives them additional protection from owls, makes the total length to the back of the gourd about 12 or more inches. However, I personally don't like the very large gourds but some people do use them and they like them
2)It no longer is necessary to use round holes but many people still use them, they try to keep the starlings away, or they have no starlings. If you have a lot of starlings, its best to use starling resistant entrances.
3)If you have bluebirds that try to nest in the martin housing, then there are recommendations that work that prevents them from nesting. Its best to keep all other birds out of the martin housing, they tend to chase the visiting martins away.
Its good that you have so many choices, that helps make the martin hobby interesting, what works at somebody elses place may not work at your place. Have fun, and good luck
I will try to answer some of your questions:
1) most martins prefer 9 to 11 inch gourds with an attached tunnel (that is my opinion). The tunnel gives them additional protection from owls, makes the total length to the back of the gourd about 12 or more inches. However, I personally don't like the very large gourds but some people do use them and they like them
2)It no longer is necessary to use round holes but many people still use them, they try to keep the starlings away, or they have no starlings. If you have a lot of starlings, its best to use starling resistant entrances.
3)If you have bluebirds that try to nest in the martin housing, then there are recommendations that work that prevents them from nesting. Its best to keep all other birds out of the martin housing, they tend to chase the visiting martins away.
Its good that you have so many choices, that helps make the martin hobby interesting, what works at somebody elses place may not work at your place. Have fun, and good luck
PMCA Member, 250 gourds, 6 poles, 2traps
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Louise Chambers
- Site Admin
- Posts: 6208
- Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2003 1:07 pm
- Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Some gourd basics: Natural gourds and manufactured gourds are popular with martins and landlords. Choose a gourd that is nice size (9 inches or larger) with an access cap. Gourds should be opaque, not letting any sunlight penetrate the gourd walls. You could use a couple of round entrances, but I suggest using starling resistant entrances on your T14. Some of the gourds you list are pretty big, and would not fit as well on your T14. Try hanging 4 gourds below it, that's a proven combination that many use to get them started. Gourds are popular with tree swallows too, sometimes with flycatchers and bluebirds as well. Whatever you put up as single nests, be sure to put a predator guard on each pole.
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DebA
- Posts: 1941
- Joined: Tue May 04, 2010 7:43 am
- Location: Pratt County/Kansas
- Martin Colony History: Start 2009 with one pair. Upgraded from S&K houses to two Trendsetter 12's with gourds beneath in 2013. I have experienced job, pet, and parental losses since '13. The Purple Martins lift my spirits and remind me how life continues forward by flying their little selves from Brazil back to my yard. As one forum person once told me, chin up DebA, look at the martins. Danger all around but yet they soar in the sky without a care in the world.
Andy,
I put four gourds underneath my Trendsetter 12's last year. I have two. Anyway I used 2 Super gourds with crescent entrance and I added the porches (order with and easy peasy to add) and 2 Troyer Horizontals per each house. Most of my birds chose the houses but I did have three that chose the gourds. 2 super, 1 THG.
I like both of those gourds. The long neck makes sense to me on the THG and the roominess was great for both having six babies in the supers.
Plus I like how they look with the houses.
Deb
I put four gourds underneath my Trendsetter 12's last year. I have two. Anyway I used 2 Super gourds with crescent entrance and I added the porches (order with and easy peasy to add) and 2 Troyer Horizontals per each house. Most of my birds chose the houses but I did have three that chose the gourds. 2 super, 1 THG.
I like both of those gourds. The long neck makes sense to me on the THG and the roominess was great for both having six babies in the supers.
Plus I like how they look with the houses.
Deb
PMCA MEMBER
Pratt County, Kansas
2016 34 PAIR
2015 27 PAIR
2014 23 PAIR
2013 13 PAIR
2012 6 PAIR
2011 4 PAIR
2010 2 PAIR
2009 1 PAIR
Pratt County, Kansas
2016 34 PAIR
2015 27 PAIR
2014 23 PAIR
2013 13 PAIR
2012 6 PAIR
2011 4 PAIR
2010 2 PAIR
2009 1 PAIR
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Tim Mangan-Kansas
- Posts: 1728
- Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:25 am
- Location: Kansas, Pittsburg
- Martin Colony History: 2016 - 22 Pair
Andy:
First of all, welcome to the PMCA. I really enjoy seeing newcomers of a younger age, like yourself, getting started in this great hobby.
As far as gourds, as Emil and Louise stated, there are many to choose from. I personally have used nothing but the Troyer horizontal tunneled gourd. It meets all the criteria mentioned by Emil and Louise. I used SREH only due to the presence of starlings. Yes, round holes are easier for martins to enter at a new location but if they like your site, they will learn to use the SREH openings. Here is a picture of some Troyer horizontal gourds hanging under my houses at my previous colony.
Being new to martins, there are several things you can do to make your site more attractive to any visitors. Be sure to put up extra perching rods. Have a bowl with oyster shells attached to or nearby your housing. Mount a couple of martin decoys on your perching rods. Obtaining and playing the dawnsong recording is an excellent tool to get martins to drop down and look at your site. Be sure to install predator guards on your poles. You don't want to go to all the work in attracting martins to your site, just to have a snake or raccoon get to them. Here is a picture of a predator guard; 4' piece of 6" PVC pipe with tree netting attached to the top of it. The tree netting is in the shape of an umbrella to trap any snakes on the inside of the netting in the event they are able to circumvent the PVC pipe.
The best advice I can give you, is to go up to the "Martin FAQ" and "Archives" buttons, above, and read all you can about how to attract martins to your site. Don't stop with just WHAT you need to do but, learn WHY you are doing it. Ask all the questions you want. There are many excellent martin landlords on this site to help you.
Tim
First of all, welcome to the PMCA. I really enjoy seeing newcomers of a younger age, like yourself, getting started in this great hobby.
As far as gourds, as Emil and Louise stated, there are many to choose from. I personally have used nothing but the Troyer horizontal tunneled gourd. It meets all the criteria mentioned by Emil and Louise. I used SREH only due to the presence of starlings. Yes, round holes are easier for martins to enter at a new location but if they like your site, they will learn to use the SREH openings. Here is a picture of some Troyer horizontal gourds hanging under my houses at my previous colony.
Being new to martins, there are several things you can do to make your site more attractive to any visitors. Be sure to put up extra perching rods. Have a bowl with oyster shells attached to or nearby your housing. Mount a couple of martin decoys on your perching rods. Obtaining and playing the dawnsong recording is an excellent tool to get martins to drop down and look at your site. Be sure to install predator guards on your poles. You don't want to go to all the work in attracting martins to your site, just to have a snake or raccoon get to them. Here is a picture of a predator guard; 4' piece of 6" PVC pipe with tree netting attached to the top of it. The tree netting is in the shape of an umbrella to trap any snakes on the inside of the netting in the event they are able to circumvent the PVC pipe.
The best advice I can give you, is to go up to the "Martin FAQ" and "Archives" buttons, above, and read all you can about how to attract martins to your site. Don't stop with just WHAT you need to do but, learn WHY you are doing it. Ask all the questions you want. There are many excellent martin landlords on this site to help you.
Tim
Licensed Bander
2015 - 14 Pair - fledged 68
2014 - Moved to Kansas - 7 Pair, 35 eggs, 28 fledged in first year
2010 Thru 2013 - Moved-Tried to start new colony
2009 - 46 pair, 217 eggs, 178 fledged
2015 - 14 Pair - fledged 68
2014 - Moved to Kansas - 7 Pair, 35 eggs, 28 fledged in first year
2010 Thru 2013 - Moved-Tried to start new colony
2009 - 46 pair, 217 eggs, 178 fledged
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John Miller
- Posts: 4863
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 9:11 pm
- Location: St. Louis, MO
I'd initially think about matching gourd types to your location and housing type than to what martins might prefer. Most of the newer gourds are accepted by martins.
I mostly use the heavy, large, Excluder gourds. These I suspect are better in heat -- a concern in Missouri in late summer -- as they are larger and might get more air flow. I do have to vent them. They can be too heavy to hang under some houses unless the floor re-inforced and need a sturdy rack. I'm hang most naturals under housing because they are lighter, and may try some of the smaller S&K gourds with the tunnel this year.
Some folks have found martins initially show a preference for the Troyer horizontal gourds -- perhaps because the female is snug and out of sight of the entrance. I am concerned about heat in these gourds -- at least during excessive heat waves -- but I sometimes suggest new landlords work in a few. The Troyer slot entrance also may be a good choice to mix in for new sites as it's not at all restrictive to martins. it apparently is sometimes breached by starlings, but may be a good "starter" entrance and can be plated over --- or some people add a higher, smooth porch -- later if needed.
One thing most gourds need is more traction in the interior bowl. The quickest way is to cut finger-sized strips of outdoor traction tape and press about the bowl like traction decals in a bathtub. These hold the nest in place as the female spins her nest bowl, and keeps the babies from wearing down the nest to the slick floor. It won't aid in attracting martins, but will make the housing better. (Tim has some photos if he still has available. )
john m
I mostly use the heavy, large, Excluder gourds. These I suspect are better in heat -- a concern in Missouri in late summer -- as they are larger and might get more air flow. I do have to vent them. They can be too heavy to hang under some houses unless the floor re-inforced and need a sturdy rack. I'm hang most naturals under housing because they are lighter, and may try some of the smaller S&K gourds with the tunnel this year.
Some folks have found martins initially show a preference for the Troyer horizontal gourds -- perhaps because the female is snug and out of sight of the entrance. I am concerned about heat in these gourds -- at least during excessive heat waves -- but I sometimes suggest new landlords work in a few. The Troyer slot entrance also may be a good choice to mix in for new sites as it's not at all restrictive to martins. it apparently is sometimes breached by starlings, but may be a good "starter" entrance and can be plated over --- or some people add a higher, smooth porch -- later if needed.
One thing most gourds need is more traction in the interior bowl. The quickest way is to cut finger-sized strips of outdoor traction tape and press about the bowl like traction decals in a bathtub. These hold the nest in place as the female spins her nest bowl, and keeps the babies from wearing down the nest to the slick floor. It won't aid in attracting martins, but will make the housing better. (Tim has some photos if he still has available. )
john m
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Tim Mangan-Kansas
- Posts: 1728
- Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:25 am
- Location: Kansas, Pittsburg
- Martin Colony History: 2016 - 22 Pair
Andy:
Here is a picture of the traction tape placed on the inside of the gourd that John referred to.
Tim
Here is a picture of the traction tape placed on the inside of the gourd that John referred to.
Tim
Licensed Bander
2015 - 14 Pair - fledged 68
2014 - Moved to Kansas - 7 Pair, 35 eggs, 28 fledged in first year
2010 Thru 2013 - Moved-Tried to start new colony
2009 - 46 pair, 217 eggs, 178 fledged
2015 - 14 Pair - fledged 68
2014 - Moved to Kansas - 7 Pair, 35 eggs, 28 fledged in first year
2010 Thru 2013 - Moved-Tried to start new colony
2009 - 46 pair, 217 eggs, 178 fledged
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John Miller
- Posts: 4863
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 9:11 pm
- Location: St. Louis, MO
Looking back at your original question, you asked what to avoid:
Avoid hanging a gourd in such a way that it whips or some say "rocks" front to back rapidly in the wind. This can tear apart the nest in a strong wind and dump babies. I have had it occur in light-weight, shallow naturals that I improperly hung with wire.
Some people have concerns about the horizontal gourds rocking side to side rapidly.
I've had rocking problems -- front to back -- with naturals that I hung below Trendsetter houses with no. 10 wire....hanging on one strand through the neck. Now I add a loop of wire around the neck to stabilize it.
Generally when hanging any gourd from a rack with wire, Chuck Abare, who has a detailed how-to gourd web site, recommends securing the wire with two pivot points to achieve a gentle swing to the gourd. Some people prefer no movement at all in their gourds, and some think a gentle swing is fine, and I've seen pros and cons discussed here as far as owl predation. (folks who don't want this much discussion are free to doze off now - ha).
As far as horizontals, one company sells "no rocker" attachments for gourd racks - but I've seen many people use these gourds as-is and seem to do okay. May depend on how windy the colony site.
John M
Avoid hanging a gourd in such a way that it whips or some say "rocks" front to back rapidly in the wind. This can tear apart the nest in a strong wind and dump babies. I have had it occur in light-weight, shallow naturals that I improperly hung with wire.
Some people have concerns about the horizontal gourds rocking side to side rapidly.
I've had rocking problems -- front to back -- with naturals that I hung below Trendsetter houses with no. 10 wire....hanging on one strand through the neck. Now I add a loop of wire around the neck to stabilize it.
Generally when hanging any gourd from a rack with wire, Chuck Abare, who has a detailed how-to gourd web site, recommends securing the wire with two pivot points to achieve a gentle swing to the gourd. Some people prefer no movement at all in their gourds, and some think a gentle swing is fine, and I've seen pros and cons discussed here as far as owl predation. (folks who don't want this much discussion are free to doze off now - ha).
As far as horizontals, one company sells "no rocker" attachments for gourd racks - but I've seen many people use these gourds as-is and seem to do okay. May depend on how windy the colony site.
John M
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phillip26r
- Posts: 104
- Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:52 pm
- Location: Tennessee/Lexington
Both time I have started a PM colony, I had success by adding natural gourds with round holes below my housing. No paint, no tunnels, no nothing except clean gourds with round holes. Once my colony was established I changed to SREH.
Another thing to consider, Andy, is having your housing close to your own house or another occupied house. Martins like to be close to people. My sister in Wisconsin has proven this --- the housing she has near unoccupied buildings do not attract the martins like the ones near occupied human housing do.
Just a thought.
Sue P
Just a thought.
Sue P
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Jeff Robinson
- Posts: 908
- Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 3:32 pm
- Location: Rogersville, Missouri
- Martin Colony History: 2008 - Current
72 Cavities - 70 Pairs in 2021
PM Mentor
Andy,
Yes, so many options, but if you have the funds to invest in quality, then notice the manufactured gourd types most often mentioned by forum members. There are an elite few, with the Troyer series of gourds being two of those.
Personally, of the 3 types of gourds I have, I place the greatest value in the Troyer Gourds - both the Troyer Gourd (previously known as the Troyer Vertical Gourd) and the Troyer Horizontal Gourd/THG. The new versions include modifications to prevent wing entrapment and a size and depth that martins seem to prefer. Even after I modified 90% of the Troyer Gourd's Conley II entrances by refacing them with the Excluder II entry, an entry that requires a greater learning curve for the martins to negotiate, they fought for and filled up on the Gemini rack quicker than my other rack with the BO-11 gourds, another quality gourd with double "insulating" walls, tunnels, and a cooling cap.
For those living in areas prone to extended periods of high heat and humidity, there is No perfectly manufactured gourd IMO. Even the highly preferred Troyer series of gourds require eventual modifications to add better venting for air circulation/heat dispersal. This past summer was the first time I have NOT had jumpers from my gourds during extended periods of extreme heat and humidity - likely due to the PVC elbows I added for venting, allowing just slightly lower temps than in those gourds not vented.
Don't get overwhelmed by all the advice, including mine
! Just do what you can for now and leave the modifications for the out years as you learn what your local martin population can endure.
It's a labor of love that will drive you to continuously improve your site for our beloved Purple Martins!
Jeff
Yes, so many options, but if you have the funds to invest in quality, then notice the manufactured gourd types most often mentioned by forum members. There are an elite few, with the Troyer series of gourds being two of those.
Personally, of the 3 types of gourds I have, I place the greatest value in the Troyer Gourds - both the Troyer Gourd (previously known as the Troyer Vertical Gourd) and the Troyer Horizontal Gourd/THG. The new versions include modifications to prevent wing entrapment and a size and depth that martins seem to prefer. Even after I modified 90% of the Troyer Gourd's Conley II entrances by refacing them with the Excluder II entry, an entry that requires a greater learning curve for the martins to negotiate, they fought for and filled up on the Gemini rack quicker than my other rack with the BO-11 gourds, another quality gourd with double "insulating" walls, tunnels, and a cooling cap.
For those living in areas prone to extended periods of high heat and humidity, there is No perfectly manufactured gourd IMO. Even the highly preferred Troyer series of gourds require eventual modifications to add better venting for air circulation/heat dispersal. This past summer was the first time I have NOT had jumpers from my gourds during extended periods of extreme heat and humidity - likely due to the PVC elbows I added for venting, allowing just slightly lower temps than in those gourds not vented.
Don't get overwhelmed by all the advice, including mine
! Just do what you can for now and leave the modifications for the out years as you learn what your local martin population can endure.It's a labor of love that will drive you to continuously improve your site for our beloved Purple Martins!
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Robinson on Sun Dec 29, 2013 7:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
PMCA Member - Bedrock Colony
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JL Murray
IMO one of the biggest things to avoid for a new Martin Landlord is the mindset of "since i have not seen any snake's here then i probably don't have any Snake's here", And by convincing themselves of that they fail to add any type of Pole Protection to prevent them, As well as other Climbing Predator's.
Those are the very same Folk's that later are posting on here that their entire Martin Colony has abandoned their site, And often stay abandoned for several years
Those are the very same Folk's that later are posting on here that their entire Martin Colony has abandoned their site, And often stay abandoned for several years
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dhjohnson
- Posts: 478
- Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:24 pm
- Location: North Carolina/Clayton
- Martin Colony History: 5th year hostess. Currently 58 confirmed breeding pair. 218 Fledged, 35 older nestlings, 2 new nests with 8 nestlings. 100% occupancy
JL,
You are absolutely correct. I know of a former 20+ year martin landlord the pfft'd at predator guards. He found a big rat snake sleeping off his festival of gorging on martins, young and adult. His whole colony of 36+ gourds went bye bye. He is very sad now but it has been three years now and he still can't attract another founding pair. None will stay. He misses his birds and is not sure if he will ever get any more martins. We try so hard to start our colonies. Why in the world do we ignore protecting them from predators.
Predator Guards are well worth their trouble! Consider additional netting above them as a secondary failsafe. The wobble ezee off baffles can be defeated.
Debbie
You are absolutely correct. I know of a former 20+ year martin landlord the pfft'd at predator guards. He found a big rat snake sleeping off his festival of gorging on martins, young and adult. His whole colony of 36+ gourds went bye bye. He is very sad now but it has been three years now and he still can't attract another founding pair. None will stay. He misses his birds and is not sure if he will ever get any more martins. We try so hard to start our colonies. Why in the world do we ignore protecting them from predators.
Predator Guards are well worth their trouble! Consider additional netting above them as a secondary failsafe. The wobble ezee off baffles can be defeated.
Debbie
Debbie Johnson
Clayton/NC (Archer Lodge)
2012 New Site 6 pair, 21 Fledged
2013 24 pair, 102 eggs, 94 hatched, 89 Fledged. What a great year!
2014 37 pair, 211 eggs, 193 Hatched, 178 Fledged, 1 nest of 5 young left! Late start but picked up speed quickly!
Clayton/NC (Archer Lodge)
2012 New Site 6 pair, 21 Fledged
2013 24 pair, 102 eggs, 94 hatched, 89 Fledged. What a great year!
2014 37 pair, 211 eggs, 193 Hatched, 178 Fledged, 1 nest of 5 young left! Late start but picked up speed quickly!
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sssSMOKING
- Posts: 93
- Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:26 pm
- Location: Verona / VA
- Martin Colony History: >>>>>>>>
2023 _ 18 pairs, 60 Fledged
2022 > 19 pairs, 58 Fledged
2021 > 20 pairs, 85 Fledged
2020 > 20 pairs, 39 Fledged
2019 > 20 pairs, 92 Fledged
2018 > 15 pairs, 39 Fledged
2017 > 12 pairs, 43 Fledged
2016 > 9 nesting pairs, 25 Fledged
2015 > 5 nesting pairs, 23 Fledged
2014 > 4 nesting pairs, 15 Fledged
2013 > 4 nesting pairs, 15 fledged
2012 > Several Lookers
Hi Andy,
I am a new landlord myself, and I think it is very important to ride around and see what your neighbor have for housing. Find someone that is close to you and has a overflow of martins and see what they are using for housing. It was my third year before I had martins and it was only when I added super gourds like my neighbors.
Best of Luck.
Don
I am a new landlord myself, and I think it is very important to ride around and see what your neighbor have for housing. Find someone that is close to you and has a overflow of martins and see what they are using for housing. It was my third year before I had martins and it was only when I added super gourds like my neighbors.
Best of Luck.
Don
Thanks Don.
I have kept an eye out for martin houses, but unfortunately here in the part of WV it really isn't a thing that is too popular.
I did find a member here that is successful and lives about 15 miles north (as a bird flies). They also mentioned the only other colony they know of that is in the reasonable vicinity. it is a public site that is managed by someone that is not a member of the forum.
I may have to take a drive up to the public site (about 20 miles away) to see what they have set up.
I do have a neighbor who put up a martin house they built about a year ago on the corner of their garden. It is a round hole two tier, ply wood house, with small compartments and a fixed wooden pole. They didn't have any luck attracting a colony.
I have kept an eye out for martin houses, but unfortunately here in the part of WV it really isn't a thing that is too popular.
I did find a member here that is successful and lives about 15 miles north (as a bird flies). They also mentioned the only other colony they know of that is in the reasonable vicinity. it is a public site that is managed by someone that is not a member of the forum.
I may have to take a drive up to the public site (about 20 miles away) to see what they have set up.
I do have a neighbor who put up a martin house they built about a year ago on the corner of their garden. It is a round hole two tier, ply wood house, with small compartments and a fixed wooden pole. They didn't have any luck attracting a colony.