Light weight wood housing

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Has anyone experimented with using thinner wood when building wood houses. I’m thinking that this could be done IF more precision cutting was used and IF the joints were glued. Possibly adding corner braces would help too. Interior panels could use lightweight but strong plastic.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?
James Johnson
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:30 am
Location: Arkansas/Western Grove

Charles, albeit there are other factors to be considered, weight reduction in Martin House designs is a righteous safety concern for both residents and landlords. I plan to build a “T-14” using 1/4" or 3/8” pine and cedar. For sometime I have been using 1/8” thick cedar to built full cavity nest boxes for three Muscleman Trios. I could not find a supplier for thin stock so I solved the problem by slicing 1”x 6” cedar boards (used for fences) into two boards and planning each to 1/8”. Water proof glue and wire nails/brads or staples make a strong joint. A small 1/8” x 1/8” strip of wood glued inside each joint adds additional strength. The same joining technique should work really well with thicker 1/4" & 3/8” material.

A “T-14” constructed out of 3/8” thick wood will weigh one half what a “T-14” constructed out of 3/4” thick wood weighs. A “T-14” constructed out of 1/4" material with removable wood nest boxes constructed out of 1/8” material would also weigh only one half the weight of a 3/4" wood “T-14” without removable nest boxes.

1/8”, 1/4", 3/8” & 1/2" wood can be easily joined with glue, wire nails, brads, or staples. Some woods are more brittle than others requiring a pilot hole to be predrilled to prevent slitting. If a suitable mini bit cannot be found you can cut the head off one of the nails or brads you are using and use it to predrilled holes.

Thinner materials will certainly take a lot of weight and strain off the pole and lift mechanism.
Scott D.- La
Posts: 823
Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 8:35 am
Location: Louisiana

The problem is........ the thinner the material, the more radiant heat will pass through and heat up the interior. In my temperature test, wood is a very good insulator, if it is thick. My wood house was made from 1x6 wood and did fabulous in testing. It's extremely heavy however, and a good pole a must. Just wanted to kick that in for consideration as I have seen some temp test info on PMCA with testing thinner plywood housing and it got very hot. If you use thin material, you may want to consider insulating and adding plenty of vents. Something more to consider since you reside in Florida.
Ryan
Posts: 308
Joined: Sat Apr 15, 2006 4:19 pm
Location: Eganville, Ontario
Martin Colony History: Visitors are rare. On the northern edge of the martins range.

The thin wood seems like it would be precision work and time consuming for sure. What about going styrofoam? With enough ventilation it would be cool in the south. The insulating properties that keeps heat inside for cool climates keeps heat out in warm climates.


The light and thin 3/4" styrofoam has a radiant heat insulating value of 5 solid inches of wood, like Scott talks about above.



This 10 unit house weighs 7 1/2 pounds. You could also try the individual chalets if you could secure them tightly to keep them from blowing around in the wind.

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bird fan
Posts: 62
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2004 12:13 pm
Location: Wisconsin/Sheboygan Falls

I have a 13 inch plainer, I plain all my boards down to 5/8 of an inch for thickness, this helps reduce the weight, but does not compromise insulation values, I also have a straight board to work with, thus causing less chance for splits or warping, I happened to buy a used plainer for under $200.00 its a dewalt brand, It works great, for the nest floors (inner) I plain down to 9/16 of an inch and the same for the perches, my T-14 never looked better, I also used a heavy guage aluminum for the roof tops I had to have it bent up by a machine shop , (they did it for free) and its a baked on finish so it never will fade, its aluminum that is used on stock car bodies the guage thickness is around 80 so it doesnt flex, also very easy to clean the bird doo off, I figured I have reduced the toatl wieght by about 12 punds.
Greg Z
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Thanks All,

Some very good thoughts. I think I will stick to wood this time for several reasons.

I am comfortable working with it.
I have the tools and knowledge.
I want it to be a project with my young son.
Wood doesn't run and drip!!!

The use of thinner wood appeals to me. I liked the split fence pickets but then I might have to buy a re-saw bandsaw and a planer. That would be horrible. LOL

The foam houses interest me too, but I think I'll wait till I actually have martins to impress.
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