Natural Gourds That Maximize Vertical/Horizontal Depth

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Steve Kroenke
Posts: 4342
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:49 pm
Location: Louisiana/Logansport

Natural Gourds That Maximize Vertical/Horizontal Depth

For my second purple martin season in northwest Louisiana, I am using three natural gourd types that maximize vertical/horizontal depth. I tried these gourds at my previous colony site in Tallahassee, Florida during 2004 and achieved an almost 100% occupancy in them. At my new colony site in northwest Louisiana, I tried them again in 2005 and 31 out of 36 were occupied by martins, reflecting an 86% occupancy level. These gourd designs were the most popular ones in my colony. All my gourds have round holes and are starling free. No starlings investigated or attempted to nest in any of my gourds at my previous colony in Tallahassee and none has done so in northwest Louisiana.

Here is a description of each of these gourd types and there are photos showing martins using them:

Vertically Deep Elongated Shaped ?Woodpecker? Gourd That Is Tilted Forward With Hole Cut Just Under The Neck

Woodpeckers do it vertically deeper for good reason and woodpeckers have been doing this for thousands of years. That should tell you something! Such nest cavities are more protected from predators than a shallow cavity with the entrance hole cut only an inch or less above the nest chamber. When woodpeckers excavate their nest chamber, they dig in for a few inches, depending on the diameter of the tree, and then go sharply downward in a gradually enlarging chamber until reaching the bottom. These cavities can resemble a boot in shape. Such cavities may drop vertically downward a foot. The nest site may be oval or elliptical in shape and not as large as the woodpeckers that create them. I have measured the inside dimensions of red-bellied and red-headed woodpecker and flicker cavities and these are often about four to five inches in width and five to sometimes seven inches in length. Woodpeckers sacrifice nesting chamber girth for deeper vertical depth. Purple martins nested successfully in such cavities in the past in the east and are still raising families in them out west. The martin?s short legs and sharp nails are perfect physical adaptations for climbing in and out of rustic sided cavities. Other cavity nesting birds like bluebirds, great crested flycatchers, tree swallows, titmice, woodpeckers, and others successfully nest in such environments.

You can create a somewhat similar replica of a woodpecker cavity by using more elongated shaped gourds with shorter necks. Finding suitable candidates for ?woodpecker? gourds can be difficult with most martin gourds, since many are round in shape.

This year I am using five woodpecker gourds that maximize vertical depth from the entrance hole and provide a very secure nest site for purple martins and four are occupied by martins as of March 23, 2006. However, my gourds are much larger in horizontal diameter at the gourd bottoms than a woodpecker cavity. In these gourds, the entrance is cut just below the neck on the curved contour, creating vertical depth of around eight or more inches. The foyer area around the entrance is narrow like that of a woodpecker cavity. Then the gourd is tilted forward at about a 45-degree angle so that the hole is pointing downward, producing a gradual sloping vertical descent to the bottom of the nesting chamber. This type of gourd has both vertical and horizontal depth and somewhat replicates a natural woodpecker cavity, which greatly protects any nesting birds from the reach of predators and rain inflow. When I add one of my pre-built nests of pine straw and oaks which are typically two or three inches thick, the vertical depth is reduced to about six or seven inches from the entrance hole. Martins will usually add some more oak leaves to the cavity but very little other nesting material like pine straw.

Martins have NO difficulty reaching the entrance hole because the gourd inside substrate is coarse and martins are perfectly adapted to climb such material with their short legs and strong nails. This is much better than having the nest level with the entrance hole, which will often occur in vertically shallow cavities with entrances cut only an inch or less above the bottoms.

Also, purple martins do NOT build their nest all the way to the entrance hole in ?true? vertically deep cavities. I have never seen a martin do it in my woodpecker gourds. No martin will build an eight inch thick nest to reach the top of a nine inch deep cavity so that their young are exposed to predators in the entrance hole. This would be biological/evolutionary suicide. Martins don?t do it in woodpecker cavities in saguaro cactus in Arizona and neither do other cavity nesting birds. Humans have offered vertically shallow cavities to martins and this has resulted in martins building their nests up to the entrance holes and then possibly using mud dams to reduce visibility inside and protect the eggs/young. When a martin only has an inch or less from the bottom to the entrance, then the martins have no choice but to build their nests up to the hole. If you cut a hole four inches above a gourd bottom, then the martins will usually build their nest two or three inches thick. This is not a true vertically deep cavity.

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Horizontally Deep Elongated Gourd With Hole Cut In Neck And Producing 90 Degree Offset Angle Entry

This type of gourd design creates a very protective environment for purple martins because the nesting chamber and inhabitants are COMPLETELY out of view from the outside and located deep inside the gourd. Just plain horizontal depth where predators can see directly inside the hole all the way back to the gourd may create a false sense of protection. Owls can easily see these martins and scare them out of the holes right into the talons of death.

Like the woodpecker gourds, it is difficult to find gourd shapes that are suitable for horizontal suspension. Such gourds are usually more elongated than round and tend to have smaller girths. In these gourds, you cut your entrance hole in the neck so that a martin will enter and then turn at around a 90-degree angle to ?waddle? down to the vertically sloping nesting chamber. The curvature of the gourd and the way you hang it produces the amount of vertical decline realized.

I am using six horizontally deep gourds with offset holes on the necks and the depth varies from 12 to over 15 inches. Five are occupied as of March 23, 2006. Martins enter the hole and then hang a sharp turn to reach the gourd end. Plus there is a gradual vertical decline to the nesting chamber at the end of the gourd, which gives more protection to the martins. Vertical depth is modest and varies from about four to six inches. The girth at the nesting chamber portion of these gourds is from about nine to ten inches. The diameter of horizontal gourds is not as important as the horizontal depth. I have several that are about six inches in diameter but over 12 inches in length and the martins flourish in them.

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Horizontally Deep ?Cliff Swallow? Gourd With Hole Cut On Neck To Produce A Funnel

Cliff swallows are perhaps the most architecturally creative hirundinids in North America and build nests that provide a secure environment for their young. These mud ?jugs? have a tunnel/funnel like entrance, which points downward and opens into the nesting chamber. If you were to give an IQ test to North American swallows, the cliff would probably score the highest!

You can create cliff swallow like nesting cavities from natural gourds without adding any kind of artificial extender. What you do is select natural gourds with long thick necks, which can be straight or curved, and a round or elongated bowl where the nesting chamber is located. Cut the neck to create about a two to two and half inch round hole to serve as the entrance. Gourd necks tend to be funnel shape whereby the inside gradually widens until reaching the bowl. Then it may drop down vertically for a few inches. These natural funnels may either protrude straight out or curve downward. Martins can easily enter the entrances and ?waddle? down the rustic interiors without slipping or sliding. There is no need to add any kind of artificial extender or perches to such entrances as Mother Nature has naturally provided the perfect portal for the martins.

I am using 34 funnel gourds and these have both straight and downward pointing funnel entrances and 22 are occupied as of March 23, 2006. These funnels vary between three to around six inches in length and the gourd bowls are between seven and 11 inches in diameter. This is producing excellent horizontal depth from around 12 to over 15 inches and good vertical descent as much as six inches to the nesting chamber.

Funnel gourds create a nesting chamber that is significantly protected from the watching eyes of owls and rain soakings. The downward sloping funnels provide the best security for the martins.

However, on a number of my funnel gourds, the neck area was too short after cutting the end. I had a round hole and a way too short funnel portal. So on these types, I attached PVC joint pipe connectors, both straight and angled, to extend the neck area out and create a tunnel which transitions into a more funnel like opening. I attached the connectors with adhesive and aluminum strips used like ?band aids?. These PVC connectors are used to join two inch diameter pipes and the hole produced is around two and half inches. The connectors are about three or four inches in length. The angled connectors create about a 45 degree turn. Since PVC is plastic and slick, martins may have a hard time entering and clinging to such a substrate. So I roughed up the inside of each connector and then smeared adhesive all over the area where martins would climb on to create a rippled surface. The adhesive was the same I used to attach the connectors to the gourds. Then I mixed a little dirt in the adhesive and this surface provided the traction for martins to easily climb on. To make sure martins could easily enter these PVC extenders, I also attached ?oval? shaped wire perches to the bottom of each of the PVC extenders using No. 10 plastic coated copper wire. I drilled two small holes about an inch inside at the bottom of the PVC connector and inserted the wires through them and bent the wire ends. This created a perch which protrudes about three inches out from the bottom of the PVC extender. Martins can easily sit on these wire perches and enter the holes.

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I am also using 34 Troyer plastic horizontal gourds which are similar to my funnels. I am looking forward to seeing if there will be a difference in occupancy levels between the two designs.

I would encourage other folks to try these gourds and see how martins respond to them. I have had a tremendous response to them! However, I use only round holes for such gourds and round holes may be more suited for such cavities. Srehs may be more appropriate for vertically shallow cavities as martins may have a difficult time exiting these restrictive entrances from such nesting chambers. But folks may still be able to use srehs with some creative hole positioning and inside porches.

Steve Kroenke
Last edited by Steve Kroenke on Sun May 07, 2006 9:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
geneinmurphy
Posts: 348
Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 12:09 pm
Location: North Carolina/Murphy

Steve....any idea as to why starlings don't entrer these yet??? A guy on the PM clubgouse had a horizontal penguin style natural gourd with a 2" hole in the bottom and had problems with starlings in his...........
Steve Kroenke
Posts: 4342
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:49 pm
Location: Louisiana/Logansport

Hey Gene,

Fortunately, the starling invasion has not reached our little section of northwest, Louisiana yet! But you never know.

We do see many starlings the closer you get to Shreveport which is a large urban area. Here is my opinion on the subject. Starling competition varies from one location to the other and what is happening at one site does not necessarily mean the same thing is happening at another. The individual on the clubhouse may have a starling problem, but that does not mean Jane Doe in Columbus, Georgia or Steve Kroenke in Logansport, Louisiana will. The reference to the clubhouse member?s starling problem is irrelevant from a global perspective and probably has little significance when compared to other geographical locations where starling competition issues are unknown. At my current location, starlings are largely non-existent so far. They just don't mess with our housing. I have my pellet gun and shotgun ready for them, but have only killed one this year. Starlings didn't bother my housing in Tallahassee, Florida either. Starling competition dynamics varies from one location to the other and is not universally severe from what I have observed. Factors such as availability of nest sites, terrain for foraging (starlings usually require open lawns, golf courses, or similar locations with short grass for hunting insects, particularly during the nesting season), and proximity to urban complexes may impact starling population levels. Now, the closer you get to Shreveport which is a large urban area, then starlings are abundant and would no doubt be a bigger problem. For example, we use srehs in all our martin satellite colonies located closer to Shreveport. Why? Because starlings are abundant there and they would most likely be a severe problem. If I used my gourds with round holes in a Shreveport suburban/urban location, I would expect starling problems.

I am hoping that the current starling competition level will not change in our little area of ?martin paradise?. I believe I can control any with trapping/shooting. However, I would not rule out using srehs in the future if I had an uncontrollable starling problem. Srehs work well in our satellite martin colonies for the most part.

I hope your Cooper?s hawk problem is resolved soon! Last year we had a pair of resident Cooper?s hawks that caught numerous martin fledglings during June and July.

Good luck with your martin colony this year.

Steve
Matt F.
Posts: 3978
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:48 am
Location: Houston, TX

Great post Steve!
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Guest

STEVE,
THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I'VE BEEN THINKING ABOUT!!! I ESPECIALLY LOVE THE SIDE HOLE ON THE NECK. I HAVE THOUGHT IN THE PAST THAT I WOULD JUST CUT THE NECK AT THE RIGHT SPOT TO PRODUCE THE APPX. 2" OPENING. MY IDEA IS TO CUT AT ABOUT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE TO MAKE THE "PORCH OVERHANG" AS NOTED IN 1 OF YOUR PICS. ALSO, I WILL NOT MAKE ANY OTHER HOLES IN MY NATURAL GOURDS AS FOR HANGING. I WILL INSTEAD USE WIRE(COPPER OR ALUMINUM) TO SORT OF MAKE AN OUTSIDE FRAME. 2 LOOPS...1 AROUND THE NECK AREA AND ANOTHER AROUND THE LARGE END AND CONNECTED IN ABOUT 4 PLACES BY HORIZONTAL WIRES. NO PLACE TO ALLOW MOISTURE ON THE TOP AT ALL. I AM ALSO CONSIDERING LEAVING OUT ANY DRAIN HOLES. SOME WILL PROBABLY QUESTION THIS BUT I BELIEVE THIS WILL BE AS COOL OR COOLER THAN AN UPRIGHT POSITION HERE IN NE KY. I HOPE TO HAVE A PIC OF MY IDEA LATER AS I LEARN TO USE THIS SITE. THIS IS MY FIRST POST.
GREENSHADE
Steve Kroenke
Posts: 4342
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:49 pm
Location: Louisiana/Logansport

Hey Matt,

Thanks man! Hope the post was informative. Have a great martin season.

Steve

Hey Greenshade,

Thank you for commenting and sharing your ideas about horizontal gourds. Your idea about not cutting hanging holes and using a different method for suspending your gourds is interesting. Moisture can be a problem at the hanging hole. I caulk around mine, but sometimes the caulk fails and small amounts of moisture invades the nesting chamber. Please test your gourds and see how the martins respond. Also please post pictures of your gourds on the Forum to give other folks ideas for gourd designs. Thanks again for commenting. Have a great martin season.

Steve
John Atteberry

Hello Steve,
Just to let you know the results on my four Troyer Horizontal Gourds! I have four Troyer's on my Multi-purpose pole with two Natureline Gourds with the two Trio MSS-8 houses! The three Troyer Gourds have two pairs of ASY pairs and one ASY male that just stole this Troyer Gourd from one of the ASY pairs and he is trying to get a female now but is fighting with the other ASY male over his female! She goes back and forth to both males! So the martins love this gourd! I will be getting 10 more of these gourds next year! One of the Natureline Gourds have been picked by a pair of ASY pairs too! And three pairs in the houses with a lone ASY male! So this multi-purpose pole is popular this year after putting it up this year! Thanks John!
Steve Kroenke
Posts: 4342
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:49 pm
Location: Louisiana/Logansport

Hey John,

Thanks for that report on your Troyer horizontals. I have 16 of them and the martins do indeed like the Troyers. I will using more of these gourds next season, too. I will be posting some photos of my multi-purpose pole with the Troyers soon. I must admit I like the cling plate concept though I don't use it on my natural funnel gourds. The martins can easily hang on the front. I may try some cling plates on my natural gourds next season. Sounds like your colony is doing just fine. Continued great success.

Steve
DAKdude
Posts: 194
Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 3:27 pm
Location: Florida/Kissimmee

Hi Steve,
I just wanted to add my experience with the Troyer Gourds. At my home site all I have is Troyer horizontals and I have had great success.

At my work site I have a large range of housing available but the Troyers are by far the favorite. I have 2 Troyer T-14s with Troyer gourds below, 3 eight compartment Coates Watersedge (Two are on a multi-purpose pole with 4 troyers below), A Trendsetter 12 house, 2 Twenty-four gourd racks (one all Troyers and one half Troyers and half Supergourds) and 2 twelve gourd racks, one with all Troyers and one with all Super Gourds. Out of all that housing available, so far I have at least 9 pairs that have settled and claimed compartments. One nest is in the T-14, one nest is in a Super Gourd and all the rest are in Troyer Gourds. They are picking Troyer gourds with crescent holes over T-14 compartments and Super Gourds with round holes. At least here there is strong preference for the longer horizontal gourd. If you can't grow your own horizontal gourds, the Troyer Horizontals are a great choice for you and the Martins.

Good luck
Sincerely
James
James Mejeur
Steve Kroenke
Posts: 4342
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:49 pm
Location: Louisiana/Logansport

James,

Thank you for the great report on the success of Troyer horizontals. Your success with them confirms just how attractive these gourds are. I plan to use more of them next season. I believe these Troyers are just as attractive as my natural horizontals. Thanks again.

Steve
Steve Kroenke
Posts: 4342
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:49 pm
Location: Louisiana/Logansport

Here is an update, April 24, 2006, on the occupancy levels for my natural gourds that maximize vertical/horizontal depth.

Woodpecker gourds--100%
Horizontals with offset holes--100%
Funnel gourds--75% and still attracting martins

These gourds have proven to be the most popular in my colony again this season. However, my regular naturals are doing very well, too.

And most exciting is that my Troyer horizontals are big hits, too. I have been looking for a suitable plastic surrogate for my naturals and this design may be the one.

I would encourage folks to consider using natural gourds that maximize vertical/horizontal depth and use both round holes and srehs as necessary.

I will soon present a comprehensive report delineating each cavity type with corresponding occupancy levels.

Steve
Guest

Steve, the logic for those shapes seems sound. I like whatever the martins like. I am worried that some day more ventilation will be needed. During really hot weather (over 105 degrees and up) the inside temperature of an enclosed space full of birds with very little ventilation, will go above the outside air temperature, and the added humidity from the birds on the inside will make panting less effective. I think something like some small slots under a rain awning, like the entrance has, would make a big difference. Cross ventilation is very helpful when cooling birds. To me the PVC L's look pretty restrictive to air flow. We are about 120 miles northwest of your location. In '78 we had some days over 110. I think it was in '80 we had six weeks of continuous days that reached 100 and above. La. is usually that critical four or five degrees cooler than it is to the west of you, so that may be enough. Just keep in mind it gets HOT very close to you some times. Please just keep this in the back of your mind as you design housing. I have seen heat that was just as threatening as anything else, when it comes. There will likely be another hot spell some day. Extra heat stress is harmful even if it does not kill. I enjoy your posts very much. Please keep them coming.
Guest

Steve,
Informative and interesting as usual.

Is it possible that size of your combined colonies is the reason starling are so scarce? On would think that with 250+ pairs some are always around to keep intruders at bay. At the same time size works against the colony when it comes to attracting avian predators.
Steve Kroenke
Posts: 4342
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:49 pm
Location: Louisiana/Logansport

Tidfam,

Thank you for commenting. I have used these designs for several years now and the highest temperatures my new colony experienced over here in northwest Louisiana was near 100 degrees in 2005 I believe. The baby martins did OK and I did not have premature jump outs due to heat. However, your point about heat stress and ventilation is excellent and I appreciate your comments. For next season, I will follow your recommendation and add cross ventilation holes to all my gourds that maximize vertical/horizontal depth. You never know when a prolong heat spell may hit us. Thanks again for your comments and sound advice.

Steve

Stan,

It is possible that a huge martin colony with hundreds of martins flying about creates an intimidation barrier to both starlings and house sparrows. This season I shot one starling flying over Bob?s colony. Then about 3 weeks ago, I finally used my pellet gun for the first time to shoot a starling that landed on a utility line near my colony. Now, would he have tried to check out my housing? I don?t know as I promptly shot him. So I don?t consider two starlings a significant problem. It is easily controlled by shooting.

Bob previously lived in Keithville, Louisiana which is just south of Shreveport. This is a more suburban area. His colony reached about 150 pairs of martins. However, he shot over 50 starlings one year I believe and his large colony did not necessarily stop them from investigating.

When I lived in the Tallahassee, Florida area, I did not have a single starling bother my colony and I lived at that site from 1985 through 2004. Previously I lived in the Wacissa, Florida which is about 16 miles east of Tallahassee, and not a single starling ever visited my colony there either. I lived there from 1975 through 1984. I was not retired and left my colony for an average of 10 hours a day. No starlings ever competed with the martins at either colony site.

At my current area, there are a number of small martin colonies located within five miles of our colonies. None has a starling problem that I am aware of. Just yesterday, we talked with the landlord of one of these colonies and he uses aluminum houses with enlarged compartments (6? x 12?) and round holes and Super Gourds with crescents. His aluminum houses are full of martins and starling free. His Super Gourds are empty and martins have not nested in them. I suggested he drill out the crescents and install round hole plates. Last year, his wife did shoot one starling that was sitting in a tree, but they have seen no starlings this year.

So, I don?t know for sure if a large martin colony can intimidate starlings sufficiently to keep them at bay. But, I believe there may be some validity to it. We would need to collect data from a variety of large colony sites and see if starlings are a problem.

From what I have observed over the last 40 years, much of the starling problem is a function of location with the more urban/suburban areas experiencing greater starling competition issues than more rural/remote places. Many rural/remote colony sites may have several starlings as competitors and these can often be eliminated via shooting/trapping.

Steve
Steve Kroenke
Posts: 4342
Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:49 pm
Location: Louisiana/Logansport

Here is an update on these gourd types:

The woodpecker and offset horizontals continue to have 100 % occupancy levels. The 34 funnel gourds now have 30 pairs of martins for an occupancy level of 88 %.

My natural gourds that maximize vertical/horizontal depth are the most popular cavities in my colony. Next year, I plan to convert as many of my standard naturals to woodpecker, horizontal with offset holes, or funnel gourds. Fortunately, a number of my standard gourds have long thick necks or the gourds are slightly elongated. This will allow me to make the conversions easily. Others are more rounded and I will use PVC extenders on these at the neck area.

Also, I added PVC extenders to four Super Gourds as a test. All four of these gourds are now occupied and percentage wise they are more popular than my regular Super Gourds.

Steve
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