missing glide button making hub on MP rack hard lower

[Lewis]

I can replace at end of season. Any one have an idea on what to do until then. I'm thinking of using some silicone calk or lube. The hub is binding against the cable and pole making it near impossible to lower.

Lewis

[Whippy]

this might work:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shepherd-7- ... nd-reviews


Coolwhips

[Jones4381]

I can replace at end of season. Any one have an idea on what to do until then. I'm thinking of using some silicone calk or lube. The hub is binding against the cable and pole making it near impossible to lower.

Lewis

I'd replace as its pretty inexpensive and could have in 2-3 days if you use a square pole.

CG2 for 2" pole or CG3 for 3" square are both only 27.95 each and include the bracket.
Troyer's direct.

[Jones4381]

I can replace at end of season. Any one have an idea on what to do until then. I'm thinking of using some silicone calk or lube. The hub is binding against the cable and pole making it near impossible to lower.

Lewis

I'd replace as its pretty inexpensive and could have in 2-3 days if you use a square pole.

CG2 for 2" pole or CG3 for 3" square are both only 27.95 each and include the bracket.
Troyer's direct. If I think were talking about the same thing...the piece just above the winch that guides the cable onto the winch wheel?

[Jones4381]

I can replace at end of season. Any one have an idea on what to do until then. I'm thinking of using some silicone calk or lube. The hub is binding against the cable and pole making it near impossible to lower.

Lewis

I'd replace as its pretty inexpensive and could have in 2-3 days if you use a square pole.

CG2 for 2" pole or CG3 for 3" square are both only 27.95 each and include the bracket.
Troyer's direct. If I think were talking about the same thing...the piece just above the winch that guides the cable onto the winch wheel? If not my apologies and good luck. What type of Rack do you have? That maybe where to start first.

[Thomabear]

When I purchased my rack I saw those buttons as a weak point with way too much play. Before Installation of my rack I replaced every one of them with 1/4” x 1/2” long nylon bolts with nylon nuts on the back side. The benefits are a smaller clearance between the frame and pole for less rotational movement and easy replacement while in service. I purchased them at McMaster Carr for $36.xx for 100 bolts and nuts so I have plenty spares. The hole where the factory riveted buttons are mounted will need to be reamed with a 1/4” bit. Easy Peasy upgrade!

[colliemom]

I assume you know you can get the glide buttons from Troyer's or someone who sells Troyer's.
I think we replaced a couple of these by lowering the hub to a position where can be reached,
push it to the side to allow more room if you can, and use needle nose or some tool to hold the glider
while you are inserting it from the inside. Not much room but sometimes where there is a will, there
is a way.

[Lewis]

I will try using one of Troyer buttons before I take the pole down if not after. I like the idea of the nylon bolts. If I can find a teflon machine screw small enough that might work temporarily.

Lewis

[John Barrow]

Thomabear,

That sounds like a great alternative. I have received replacement buttons from Troyers to replace about a dozen missing buttons on racks that came from CUENT (B4 sale to Troyer) sold with a poor UV inhibitor. Would you share the size of the of the bolts and nuts, or part numbers, from McMaster-Carr. (I have 4 systems on 2 in poles and 1- 3 in SS24. I would like to try to fill the missing glide spaces without breaking down the systems. (Replacing Troyer buttons requires a person to insert them from the inside-out and temporarily holding them in with plastic packing tape). I also have two feeding stations that are missing glide buttons. Thinks for the great, and affordable, idea.

Best wishes for a great martin season!

[Thomabear]

Here you go John. Just to clarify that while you won’t have to take the frame completely apart you will still have to loosen it to make some room to slide the bolts in. After the holes are reamed to accept the 1/4” bolts they will be easy to install.

On Edit: I can’t remember if I reamed the holes to 1/4” or 5/16”. It’s been a while but either size should work.

[Matt F.]

Hi Lewis,
One thing I've done in a pinch when I wasn't able to take the hub off the pole to fix, was found the thickest nylon zip ties I could find, and feed the end into the glide button hole, and out the bottom or top of the hub (whether you're working with the bottom or top hub holes) and then tighten it down. Then you can do the same until you get maybe get two or three zip ties attached in there, providing a nylon plastic buffer between the hub and the pole.
Not the most glamourous fix, but it worked for me.

[John Barrow]

Thank you, Thomabear, for the link and information. I placed my order this morning, and in great McMaster-Carr fashion the items will be here Wednesday. Your sharing of a valid alternative for the present glide buttons encouraged me to type out the information I located on Armstrong Cricket Farms---something I have been intending to share for several months.

Thank you, Matt for the quick fix idea you posted!

[Thomabear]

Thanks John
They are definitely a go to place for hard to find items.

[Matt F.]

Thank you, Matt for the quick fix idea you posted!

Hi John,
You're most welcome!
I hope you and Louise are doing great!

Matt