NEST TRAYS

[Dale D]

Was sitting here thinking about nest trays. A lot of people use them, including myself.

Most everyone would agree when it comes to compartment size, 6" width is probably the average size, but once you introduce a nest box you are going to have a reduction in width of the compartment. Using 1/4"for the sidewalls you have reduced the nesting area to 5.5". Has anyone used less than this with no problem?

What do you feel is an acceptable inside width of a nest box?

[rdhd]

I

[flyin-lowe]

The base of my nest trays are 1x6 and the side and back pieces are from a sheet of birch I bought at Lowe's. it is very thin and still sturdy. This is the only picture I have of the trays but you get the idea. It is not enough to make a noticeable difference in the available size. I made mine tall enough that babies cannot jump over the back when I am sliding the tray in, I have heard of people smashing babies that scurry over the back of the nest tray if they are only a couple inches tall. There is around an inch or so between the top of my nest tray and the ceiling.

[apundt-TX]

Dale,
I completely understand what you are talking about. I made nesttrays out of 1/2 foamboard. bottom piece about 5 1/2 inches wide. the sides are made from political signs. maybe 1/4 inch wide. so that make the nest 5inches across by 5 inches deep.
there is a room for the young ones to jump over the middle piece (can't think what it is called) but it substitutes for the mud dam. Will see how it goes.

[Leandortree]

Dale D,
I will attempt to post a photo or two, of the troyer T14 nest tray. They are 6 inches wide inside .I think 5.5 inches will be ok; the young will spread out as they grow. As you can see in the photo the incubating mother bird does not use much room. The inside of a Troyer 14 nest tray is about 69 square inches.
The 6x6 cavity size is 36 square inches; a lot of martins have been raised in those small quarters.
What did you have in mind as to what would be an acceptable width? I can't say unless I know the length also.

[Dale D]

Thanks for everyone's input. The boxes I use are similar to what you guys have posted. I was just curious what size boxes people were using. I will attach a picture of mine for you to see. Thanks again for the replies.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj28 ... G_1174.jpg

[Dave Reynolds]

Dale -- Nothing wrong with that photo, looks great. Good luck this year.. Dave

[John Miller]

Dale

Some of my nest trays are about 5 inches wide and martins do fine. I make the trays narrow to slip past wing entrapment guards on trendsetters, which in my houses are in the side walls.

I think it's good to have a tray front about 1.5 inches high. Otherwise, I sometimes have young -- not yet feathered - that crawl out onto the porches. If one makes the front higher, older babies may not be able to climb back and forth.

John

[Dale D]

Thanks Dave, I have used these same nest boxes for about 8 years now. I was curious to know just how narrow some other landlords have gone with their boxes.

Thanks John,
I think you answered the question. I always thought that a 5" wide box would work.

[Dave Duit]

Leandortree,
Your boxes are identical to mine. Great minds must think alike. lol. Good craftsmanship.

[~Ray~Gingerich]

I did mine a little different since I was looking for a way to save weight. I cut the bottom boards then used a band saw to cut a beveled 5-1/2 inch hole, next I cut a piece of heavy duty aluminum flashing and nailed it to the bottom, that forms a nice nest cup in the wood. For the sides and end I used the same aluminum and formed it to fit around the wood. I smoothed off all sharp edges on the aluminum. To finish it off I smeared latex caulk here and there to give it a used before look. The inside width measures 6-1/4 inches. Some of these have been in use for 7 years now.

[Dale D]

Very nice design Ray. Nest box with a nest bowl built in. I can see where these will last you for years. Your compartments must be wider than most since you can slide a nest box inside, and still have 6.25" width inside.

[Louise Chambers]

I dug up a photo of the foam nest trays we use - lightweight, easy to make (box knife scores the foam, snap it and assemble pieces with hot glue gun). They last a few to several seasons, can be cleaned up with a soak in soapy water + some bleach.

[Dale D]

Thanks Louise,

I like this design. Light weight, and inexpensive.

[bwenger]

Louise and John,

Do you have more luck with a glue gun rather than the construction adhesive that is made for the foam insulation?

Thanks,

Bill

[barry resvick]

Another thing that works well to hold them together is silicon.Its water proof and wont melt the foam.

[barry resvick]

Hi Friends!
I cant figure out how to attach a pic on this site but we make our trays out of coroplast sheet,the kind they use for signs.We can buy 4x8 sheets of black.We put them together with slicon or a glue gun and lastly we silicone in a styrafoam nesting bowl a half inch high.This helps keep everything dry and once the foam block is added,they are very strong.One of the nicest thing about them is that they can be made at the kitchen table.

[Louise Chambers]

Bill, John is the builder, but he always uses hot glue gun and they hold up well. It's quick and easy.

[John Barrow]

Friends,

I have made many of the foam nest boxes like Louise has displayed. They are lite, easy and cheap to make and hold up will throughout a season or two. I use the 1/2 inch foam board (comes in 4x8 feet sheets). It can be scored along a straightedge with a knife and then popped open in a uniform cut. I reduce the whole board down to strips that are about 5 and 7/8 inches wide and 11 and 7/8 inches long. This size is used as the floor that will sit within the 6x12 inch lonestar compartment. These floor pieces can also be cut into pieces roughly two inches wide (by 5 7/8 inch. deep) to use for sides of the box. I use a hot glue gun and release 3 or 4 small drops of glue on to the floor where the sides will be attached and a drop of glue on connecting sides. I then install the side and hold it firmly in place for a few seconds for the glue to dry and hold.

The initial thread of this post addresses the ensuing final size of the interior box, which reduces the overall cavity by an inch. This does not represent a problem. In fact I have cut the two side pieces of the box down to about 4.5 inches, rather than 5 7/8. This leaves a box 5 7/8 -front and back and sides that are only 4.5 inches deep.

By purposely reducing the size of the box I increase the open area of the cavity in front of the interior box. Use of the interior nestbox is primarily by eggs and very young nestlings that come nowhere near filling the nesting cavity. When they reach 12-13 days of age they tend to congregate in front of the box near the entrance hole awaiting arrival of food from adults. As they reach full size they need a larger area in front of the built in nesting cavity. They will seldom retreat to the nesting area unless frightened during a nestcheck or similar experience. At that point in age the nesting walls are not an obstacle to them-they can easily navigate over and around the walls.

I hope this is easier to visualize then it is to explain in writing.

[Craig Haddox]

I use cedar boards for fences. It's 5 1/2 inches wide and the martins love them.